



January 1, 2010I made it to Gwangju safe and sound, no worries. We arrived late on friday by about an hour and a half due to de-icing in Chicago. The flight was ridiculously long, but thankfully I had a window seat. Jenn convinced the reluctant fellow in the 3rd seat to relocate across the aisle. It was a tough sell; he seemed to be enjoying hanging out with us ladies, but his overhead light was malfunctioning and Jenn finally made the sale.
If I ever fly first class, it'll be Asiana Airlines. In coach we had 2 meals (1. steak, potatoes, veggies, dessert, 2. a spinach tomato omelette, yogurt, croissant, and juice), leg room, an endless supply of drinks and some swanky hot towels. Unfortunately, I had a seat that didnt recline and a suspicion that the fellow behind me might've been pushing forward as I leaned back. Fourteen hours upright was almost too much.
We arrived in Incheon and I was grateful to see my luggage already making its way around the baggage carousel. Jenn experienced no such emotion. All 3 of her bags were lost. The director's husband called the airline the next day and she learned that not only had they not made it to Korea, they hadn't even made it out of Baltimore. Thankfully I was on an earlier flight and was checked in by a woman who actually knew what she was doing.
We waited for 4 hours in Incheon Int'l for someone to come get us. Rose (our recruiter) gave us a phone number to call in case there was no one waiting for us at the airport. By the 3rd hour, we could only assume it was just a random series of numbers she had given to placate us. Finally the woman at the information desk was able to get ahold of someone on the other end of the line and we were told someone would come to take us to the bus station. Ten minutes later someone came for us, walked us 50 ft out the door and up to a bus. Really? We waited 4 hours for someone to escort us to a bus? He told us it would be about a 3 hour ride.
That sketchy man lied to our faces. The drive seemed to take forever. I nodded off for a while and when I woke up thought for a second I was watching the PA turnpike scenery fly by. It was all mountains and mini snow drifts. As soon as 3 hours had gone by, Jenn started imagining herself in every city we passed. I can't tell you how many times I was nudged awake as another city came into view with an "Erin! We're here! This has to be the one. Look there it is! Oh we made it!" Only to watch as the bus continued right on going. By the time we finally arrived 3 hours later the need to catch a glimpse of the city as soon as it came into sight was all but gone.
We arrived at the bus station in Gwangju more than ready for (and desperately in need of) a shower and some dinner in our new apartments. I even stole toilet paper out of the bus station bathroom to make sure I wouldn't have to go shopping til the morning. Ruby, the director, and her husband, Mr. Kim, picked us up from the bus station and escorted us to a car with just enough trunk space for 1 of my suitcases and the wheelie carryon. A small silver lining to the fiasco that is Jenn's lost luggage. I wonder what their plan was for getting us to our new apartments...
No worries. They had no intention of taking us to our new apartments. They packed us in their car and drove us to their home where we were told we would be staying for the night and that they would take us to our apartment in the morning. When we asked Mr Kim if that meant we would be living together he said he didnt really know what his wife had planned for us. When we asked his wife, she told us that she had intended for us to work at the new school they were opening on tuesday, but Gwangju law is ambiguous on whether teachers with a visa for one school can work for a different school under the same director.
So she not only hedged, she brought up an issue of which we were not even aware. Apparently they had intended for us to work at the new school, but we can't because the visa information they gave us was for the old school and Gwangju Immigration services wont allow us to work for the new one even though it is affiliated with the one our visas cleared us for. ALSO, they were planning on pushing our departure date back a while so we could get visas for the new school, but because Jenn called our recruiter and threatened to back out, they had to bring us over right away. Thank God, too, because I definitely was not going to go back and do the whole visa thing over again.
So we just figured we'd shower, go to bed and deal with it in the morning. Well, that plan failed. They took us on a tour of the city, then to see the school, then we dropped by, unannounced, to visit 2 of the other new teachers and take them to dinner at Pizza Hut where we asked for cheese pizza and our "host parents" ordered pepperoni and supreme. Eggcellent. To be fair I hadn't yet explained to them that I don't eat pork. We didnt get back til after 11. If I'd been in my own apartment, I'd have been asleep before the shower was even over, but because I've got a host family, I met my new co-workers right after 39 hours of travel. I was gross, but when your host family plans dinner, you dont have a lot of options.
Then we were taken to our bedroom where we couldnt help but notice that there was only one twin bed. Jenn got a futon on the heated floor and I got the bed, unfortunately. It's almost like sleeping on plywood. I tried my hardest to trade, but all Jenn had to do was sit on the bed for a minute before she realized who'd win in that exchange.
January 2, 2010We got up this morning and Mr. Kim made us breakfast. I just wanted cereal and a glass of water. No cereal here, we had this beef broth soup stuff with tofu, beef pieces, eggs, onions, and potato looking things (which were actually gelatinous rice flour blobs) with a side of Kimchi and- because I don't eat slow enough already- all we were given was a pair of flat stainless steel chopsticks. It takes an entirely different set of hand muscles to hold and pick up food long enough to get it to your mouth. Not only that, but the flat metal doesnt provide any grip, so the noodles just slide away. And when I asked for water, I got weak tea that tasted like cashews. I know, right? Cashew tea. I tried to clarify and nearly got another cup of lukewarm cashew tea. So I waited for him to leave the room and ran to the sink and got Jenn and I some water. It felt like espionage. Jenn kept a lookout as I tried to fill our cups as quickly and quietly as I could. Then Mr. Kim came back! Jenn jumped, I jumped and we were caught. We tried to explain as politely as possible that just plain water from the tap was good enough for us. We haven't been offered the cashew tea since.
Sam, the Kims' son told us that the water is safe, but it tastes bad so Koreans drink the cashew tea instead. Water is water as far as I'm concerned as long as its clean and clear. It tastes like what comes out of my tap back home, so I'm perfectly content to drink it. Apparently most Koreans leave the tea in the fridge, but the Kims just leave it on the counter. Like Marie-Elizabeth and milk. I'm plagued by room-temperature-beverage-loving host parents.
Sam has assured me that by the end of the month I'll be an expert at the chopstick thing and eventually I'll just accept the cashew tea as a water substitute. He recently graduated highschool and is studying for his university exams. We were told he was 18, but he later informed us he was born February 1993. So not quite America 18. He passed the english equivalency exam with a perfect score when he was 12, gaining quite a reputation for his parent's school.
After breakfast, Mr. Kim offered to take us for a walk to see the area, which we thought meant the town, but really meant hiking the trail up the side of the mountain right behind the apartment building. It was a pretty trail, but I might not have worn clean jeans and a purse. Jenn wore the only shoes she had, leather Ugg boots with fur on the inside. Oh the mud...
Speaking of boots, we have been informed that, because the floors in the school are new and heated, we have to take our shoes off when we get there. The students and teachers only wear socks to class. Well Crap. I spent all that money on boots and wasted all that luggage space only to find out its a hippie shoe-free school. Worse than that, I didnt even pack matching socks.
So after our hike up the mountain, we came back and taught Sam how to play uno and while we socialized we explained our food preferences and he relayed them to his parents. We'll see if that does anything. Koreans eat alot of pork and seafood; I dont eat pork and Jenn doesnt eat seafood.
Lunch didnt start til 4. It was ramen noodles with real vegetables, mushroom and egg pieces. Sam and Mr. Kim tried teaching us the chopstick technique, but I was still the last person to finish. Nothing new there. I tried the kimchi (fermented spicy tomato cabbage leaves). Its not for me.
At dinner I realized they probably weren't going to acknowledge my no-pork request. There sitting on my plate was a pork chop-salisbury-steak-esque thing with rice and fresh veggies in apple yogurt. I'm a big fan of the veggies in fruit yogurt, as weird as that sounds.
We haven't heard anything else on what we're supposed to be doing come monday, or if we will ever get an apartment, either together or separately, but for now I've got a bed and regular meals.
Having the host family is nice, I guess, but I miss being able to eat and drink whatever I want whenever I want it and being able to just stay at home and chill instead of having to make conversation every waking minute.
January 3, 2010We've been sleeping pretty much straight through the night so far. Thanks to Unisom I think we'll be able to survive jetlag.
Breakfast was pork curry and pureed clementines. Quelle dommage... a waste of perfectly good clementines.
So we got out of the apartment today and went around the city and went shopping for real food (like frosted flakes and white zinfandel). Buying shampoo and soap in Lotte Mart was different and there's a pretty good chance I ended up with conditioner instead. They have sales associates in every section of the store to assist the buyers and most of them know a word or two in english, but dont understand to save their lives. So there was a lot of pantomiming and laughing as they tried to guess what we were talking about. I felt like I was on a Korean game show. In the seafood section and deli they had karaoke machines and it looked like they were competing with each other for sales even though it was all the same korean super wal-mart place.
The Lotte Mart had a mini food court with exactly what you would expect to find in a knock-off Super Walmart: a knock off McDonald's. Trying to get a chicken sandwich sans mustard and teriyaki sauce was harder than one would think. The ketchup tasted like it was spiked with cocktail sauce. Certainly not up to par with Heinz. The meal as a whole wasn't bad, but shortly after we sat down we noticed a distinctive feet smell. Afraid it was us, we tried discreetly sniffing ourselves before we caught sight of a pot of what must have been steaming feet. Several of them, in fact. There will probably come a day when my curiosity reaches its peak and I break down and buy a pot of hot feet, but for now Lotteria is as risky as I get.
We took a cab back with the help of the little piece of paper Mr. Kim wrote for us with their address and the cabbie kept turning up the music to drown out our talking. We of course didnt take the hint, but it seemed to make him drive faster. It was about 4$ to get home from down town. The Kims dont live near anything but a mountain trail so I hope we dont live in this area.
Trying to get back into the building was crazy, of course. First we got the wrong building and confused a poor korean woman who didnt speak english shouting "HELLO. ITS JENNIFER. AND ERIN." Next we got the right building, wrong half, and stood confused when we typed in the bell number and didnt hear anything. No one answered in apartment 201 because apartment 201 does not exist on that side of the building. Finally we found the right building and right entrance and no one was there. We had a backup number for the director's mother who lives two floors up (the director's whole family lives in the same apartment complex) who doesnt speak ANY english but came down to let us into their home. So the family is out right now, which is pretty irritating since Mr Kim is the one who dropped us off at the store and he knew we would be coming home, so why on earth didnt they make sure someone was here to get us? A different kind of people, for sure.
We still dont know anything about whats happening tomorrow and we haven't seen Ruby since yesterday morning. She's just totally M.I.A. and her husband doesnt know anything about what her plans are for us. She hasnt made an appearance since friday night.
We didnt get dinner tonight; I guess they figured we had lunch out so we'd be okay til morning. Here's to hoping breakfast is big. And not too crazy.